Moving from Antananarivo, Madagascar to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Heading to Antananarivo Airport

We left from the Madagascar Underground hostel around 12pm, and the shuttle driver was the same person who drove us to the hostel when we arrived at Madagascar the first day. Just like the first time we met him, he asked us for money and food. As the shuttle drove down the hill and got into the crowded downtown, it slowed down and we started seeing kids asking for food and money through the car windows. Before we got out of the shuttle, the driver asked for our water bottle as a souvenir.

We checked in our luggage quickly and went upstairs to grab some food. We didn’t know the credit card machine was not working and we were short of cash for 3,500 MGA when paying for our food. However the minimum for ATM withdrawal at the airport was 5,000 MGA and the only one US Dollar bill we had could only be exchanged for 1,500 MGA at the foreign exchange in the airport. As we had to go boarding, we explained to the restaurant staff and they were fine just taking the dollar bill.

Layover at Nairobi Airport

We boarded around 3:20pm and arrived at Nairobi, Kenya around 7pm. Part of the terminal was under renovation. We stopped by 3 airport lounges and stayed overnight at one of them to wait for our flight to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania next morning. As it was late night on New Year’s Eve, there were not a lot of people at the airport and the lounges.

On January 1, we woke up at 5am to take shower and grab breakfast in the lounge before heading to catch our 6:50am flight.

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

We arrived at Dar es Salaam airport around 8:30am. After getting out of the airplane, we were directed to the immigration counters. There were three counters checking the passports and two counters for visa applications. As we did not have much cash, one of the officers was very kind and took us to an ATM outside of the visa counter so that we could pay the visa application fees.

After getting the visa and picking up our backpacks, we inquired one of the tour companies outside of the airport for information about Kilimanjaro tour and took a cab to the Protea Hotel. Most of the roads around the airport were broad and well paved. We checked in at the hotel quickly, had the welcome snacks and then headed out to find the transportation to Moshi.

Kilimanjaro Express Ticket Office

Thanks to the hotel receptionist, we were able to go to the ticket office using public transportation. On our way to the Kilimanjaro Express bus company to buy the tickets to Moshi, we also got a look at the city of Dar es Salaam. Most of the routes were paved roads and there were lots of cars. The express bus terminal and stops were built in the middle of the main roads, with designated lanes. Then the lanes next to them were for all other cars, including city buses, passenger cars, motorbikes, auto tricycles and bicycles. On each side of the roads were sidewalks and some business and residential buildings. Overall the public transportation in the downtown area seemed well developed.

We purchased the bus tickets to Moshi from Kilimanjaro Express ticket office and had lunch at the restaurant on the second floor of the ticket office. Then we took the express bus back to the Morocco terminal. We waited for the city bus for a while but none of those stopping by went to our hotel so we just took a walk back to the hotel. Part of the sidewalks were not paved but was not a problem for walking.  Our long-distance bus to Moshi would depart early morning so we just took rest after getting back to the hotel.

Information

Transportation

Shuttle from Madagascar Underground hostel to Antananarivo Airport

Price: 10,000 MGA / person

Payment: Cash only

Ride time: 20 minutes

The staff at the hostel made a phone call for us and the shuttle came around 12pm as requested. For additional information about the airport shuttle, refer to post Moving to Antananarivo, Madagascar.

Flight from Antananarivo, Madagascar to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania by Kenya Airways

Price: US $126.42 / person

From Antananarivo, Madagascar to Nairobi, Kenya

Trip time: Approximately 3 hours

In-flight meal: Yes

Nairobi Airport (NBO) lounges

• Kenya Airways Simba (closed at 12am)
• Kenya Airways Pride (open 24 hours, hot food provided, nap beds available)
• Turkish Airlines (food provided)

Kenya Airways lounges were accessible for the gold members of Sky Team, and the Turkish Airlines was accessible for Priority Pass card holders. As we had to wait for the flight next day and the Simba lounge opened until 12am, we stopped by Turkish Airlines lounge to grab some food and stayed at the Kenya Airways Pride lounge overnight. Snacks and drinks were provided and shower rooms were available at both Turkish Airlines lounge and Kenya Airways Pride lounge. The Pride lounge also provided hot food during dinner time. Breakfast includes hot food and fresh fruits. Can drinks were available anytime. The shower rooms at the Pride lounge were very clean, and towels, shampoo, body wash and hair dryer were all available.

From Nairobi, Kenya to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Trip time: 1 hour 40 minutes

In-flight meal: Yes

Fees for Visa on Arrival: See picture below

Dar es Salaam Airport (DAR)

An ATM was available after passing the visa application counters. One of the officers was nice to take us to withdraw some cash and come back to pay the visa application fees.

Outside of the airports, there were a few tour companies providing tour information. Taxis were also available, with a chart showing the rates at the taxi booth. The rates for foreigners were much higher than those for the domestic people.

Taxi from Dar es Salaam Airport to Protea Hotel

Based on the rate table at the taxi booth right outside of the airport, it would cost 80,000TZS for two persons. As the hotel shuttle would only cost 25USD per person, we negotiated with a few drivers and one of them sent us to the hotel for 50,000TZS.

Bus from Protea Hotel to Kilimanjaro Express ticket office

Thanks to the hotel receptionist, we were able to get to the Kilimanjaro Express ticket office using public transportation. Based on the instructions from the receptionist, we walked to the local city bus stop (Palm Beach stop, about 10-minute walk from the hotel), took the local bus to Morocco (express bus terminal), and then transferred to the express bus to Shekilango stop.

Local city bus from bus stop to the express bus terminal

Route: toward Morocco Terminal

Price: 400 TZS / person

Payment: Cash only

Ride time: 20 minutes

Palm Beach Bus Stop: Google Maps

Morocco Bus Stop: Google Maps

It was a mini bus. The major stops were marked on each bus. A person standing at the door was in charge of collecting fees.

Express bus from Morocco to Shekilango

Route: #7 Express Bus

Price: 650 TZS / person

Payment: Paid with cash

Ride time: 20 minutes

Morocco Bus Terminal: Google Maps

Shekilango Bus Stop: Google Maps

Shekilango was the closest stop to Kilimanjaro Express bus company. There were designated lanes and bus stations for the express buses, so they were separated from all other cars. Tickets were available at the bus terminal. The tickets should be kept throughout the ride.

The bus was large and modern. However, as there was no A/C and it was very packed, it got very hot and stuffy.

Note that taxis and auto tricycles were also available on the streets. We did not use the tricycles during our stay in Dar es Salaam. Refer to Moving to Moshi (Kilimanjaro), Tanzania for further information about taxis.

For information about Kilimanjaro Bus, also refer to Moving to Moshi (Kilimanjaro), Tanzania.

Food / Restaurant

Restaurant at Antananarivo Airport

A restaurant serving light food and drinks was located on the second floor at the international terminal. No A/C but the view was nice, with the whole scene of the runway. We shared a pastry and strawberry milk, which tasted interesting, cost 5,100 MGA in total.

Mr. Fries

Located across the street from the Protea Hotel Dar es Salaam. It served pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches and soft drinks. Refer to Stone Town, Zanzibar for further details.

Location: Google Maps

Restaurant at Kilimanjaro Express ticket office

The restaurant was located on the second floor of the ticket office. A menu with prices was provided. We ordered 2 dishes of 1/4 chicken for 16,000 TZS, tasted fairly good. There was a convenience store across the street, selling packed snacks and drinks.

Location: Google Maps

Accommodation

Protea Hotel Dar es Salaam Courtyard

Price: 7,500 Marriott hotel points + US$3/ night

Checkout: 10:00am

WiFi: Yes, available in the room

Amenities (towels, tooth brush, tooth paste, etc.): Yes

Meal: Not included. A restaurant was located within the hotel, providing breakfast, lunch and dinner. Refer to post From Arusha to Dar es Salaam for further details.

Location: Google Maps

This is a 3-star hotel. An outdoor swimming pool was surrounded by the hotel rooms. The hotel also provided free storage for luggage (we left one of our large backpacks when going to Zanzibar). The room we stayed was very clean and comfy. Due to our hotel membership, we got hot food and mixed juice (watermelon, pineapple and passion fruits) as welcome snacks.

The service quality from the front desk varied. The first day when we arrived, the receptionist was very friendly and provided lots of information regarding our travel plan. During our second stay though, a different receptionist was not nice, unable to answer any of our questions and her way of talking always came with strong attitude.